The ICW Part I

We arrived in Norfolk Virginia in the early evening on 10/24.  Our plan was to anchor in Willowby Bay and travel a short 10 miles the next morning to Tidewater Marina for diesel fuel and supplies which were convenient to get in Portmouth VA.  Our night at anchor in the bay was a rough one.  Winds were out of the south at 15-20kts with gusts as high as 30kts.  We left the next morning at 9:15 am and tied up at the marina at 11:30 am.  The city of Portmouth is very quaint and the area surrounding the marina is the historic district . We walked around the city stopping to read many of the historic placards which describe the significant people, places and events which took place in the city during the Revolutionary and Civil wars.  It was very enjoyable and the prices in stores and restaurants were reasonable.

Exodus from Norfolk

We left Portmouth on the morning of 10/26 and entered the lock at the entrance to the Great Dismal Swamp Canal at 11 am. 

Locking Up

The lock was full of boats and it took 1 hour to lock through.  It was really the slowest lift we had ever experienced.  Our plan was to stay the evening at the GDS visitors center and then continue the next day to Elizabeth City NC.  Once again weather becomes the story and we along with 16 other boats were destined to stay at the Center for the next 3 nights.  The problem was a lack of anhoring and slip availability in Elizabeth City.  Weather was so bad on the Abermarle Sound that boats were not making the crossing.  Therefore, our boat city in the swamp was formed.

Boat City  3 boats across

As has been the case the entire trip we made several new friends and learned a great deal about the ICW from the more experienced cruiser's in our group.  We finally arrived in Elizabeth City at 12:30 pm on 10/30.  I'm posting this blog entry on Sunday morning 10/31.  We plan to provision the boat completely today as we're told opportunites to do so are few, between Elizabeth City and Beaufort NC.  We'll be crossing the Albermarle Sound tomorrow morning leaving Elizabeth City at first light.  The dicesion to take the Great Dismal Swamp was made really at the last opportunity to do so.  You come to a junction on the Elizabeth River a few miles south of Norfolk and you can take the Virginia Cut or the Dismal Swamp Canal to the Abermarle Sound.  A couple we had met in Deltaville, Jim and Johann convinced us you really need to do the swamp at least once.  Many boaters with deep drafts tend to avoid it due to low water levels.  We contacted the Army Corps of Engineers as well as the visitor center for conditions throughout the canal.  We were told it has a consistent 6 foot water level and was relatively free of debris from storms.  We're thrilled we listened to Jim and Johann as the swamp is beautiful covered tightly on both shores with tall overhanging Cypress trees.  At points you can imagine that you're sailing up some deserted stretch on the Amazon River.


Eerie Canal



Dismal Swamp Canal

That's about all for now.  The weather is getting colder and the days are getting shorter.  Kris and I are beginning to feel a sense of urgency to get to warmer climates quickly.  We're trying to resist this urge and keep to our plan to travel 5-6 hours a day.  We may be able to keep on this schedule but we realize we'll need to be moving every day if we'll make Florida by Thanksgiving.